Climbing report from Russell

Russell has filed this report. It fills in a gap in the story - but is a bit out of sequence

October 13 Yala Peak

This climb was started early on October 13 (Monday). We needed to be up at 4:00 am for a bite to eat and away by 5:00 am. (Hazel, Russell, Andrew, Brendon, Gordon, Ross, Murray). We managed to get away shortly after 5:00 am after checking all necessary climbing gear was being carried (Ice axe, crampons, harness, gaiters, over trousers). Ropes were carried by the guides and also plastic shoes as the snow was only near the summit (say last 100 meters or so).

A fast and furious pace early on in darkness (by head torch), but the pace slowed later as light appeared and as we neared the peak. (Later on we were amazed by the ground we had covered in darkness).

The climb was straightforward but with a nip in the tail, being the ridgeline section. Two fixed ropes were put in place for the final snow section – the first to ensure we each could use an ascending device, the second to assist to make the ridge line. Once on the ridge line a short but careful traverse to the highest point. (This needed care as there was no protection in place on the ridge line).

The guides (Tsering and Santa) had complete self confidence demonstrated by their ascent and descent without crampons!

We reached the highest point (approx 5500m) about 8:30 am in perfect cloudless weather stayed for 20 minutes or so to enjoy a magnificent panorama, take photos etc, and then descended to a welcome breakfast about 10:00 am back at base camp (stopping at the snowline to remove crampons and plastics).

Some members of the team clipped into the top rope on descent (with prussic device) and in at least one case this provided prevention against injury (as the individual slipped). The return to base camp was quick and without incident.

After a quick meal we cleared away our tents and packed our personal gear for the trip back to Kyanjin Compa. This completed a big day but the achievement was a great feeling and a confidence builder for our upcoming ascent of Naya Kang.

October 14 Journey to High Camp (in preparation for Naya Kang)

After a not so early start (up at 6:30 am for breakfast) 7 of us (with porters and guides) left for High Camp across the river for an attempt on Naya Kang the next day. Hazel had joined the other team trekking the Gosakund and Michael joined our team having stayed at Kyanjin Compa. We had looked across the valley often in the direction of Naya Kang and now we were steadily positioning ourselves so we could make the summit the next day.

Our lunch stop was at Base Camp , a beautiful spot prior to the snow line with a view across the Langtang valley. We were generously served by the cooks on a blue plastic mat laid out in the sun.

Here Andrew, an experienced rock climber, found boulders to his delight (many “problems” waiting to be solved). The porters took up the challenge of attempting some of Andrew’s tricks and we clapped and took videos showing their natural ability and enjoyment on the rock.

After lunch we continued our steep climb to High Camp reaching a spot in the snow later in the day that was at an altitude of nearly 5000 meters. Tents were quickly erected and a camp established , with toilet (between 2 rocks) and designated areas for the cooking tent and our eating tent (which became the porters sleeping tent at night).

Again the cooks fed us well with many servings – a good preparation for the next day.

When the sun disappeared the temperature plummeted (to about -7 or -8 degrees C). Sleeping bags were the most appealing place to be. To keep warm the best plan was to sleep in all your clothes (and even then you didn’t at any stage feel too warm).

Our plan was to rise early, take day packs and our climbing equipment and get a long way up Naya Khang before the sun rose. Again a 4:00 am breakfast was planned.

October 15 Naya Khang

We managed to get away shortly after 5:00 am after breakfast . As it was cold waiting in the snow, we were keen to get started so we could warm up.

Again the initial pace was fast and furious. In addition it was took some learning time to walk in plastics over the snow and rocks (we did not put crampons on at this stage). After a short period, Murray was not feeling too well (probably with altitude difficulties) and decided to return to Base Camp. (Michael also had stayed at base camp as he did not intend to do the climb). So the climbers continuing at this stage were Ross, Russell, Andrew, Brendon and Gordon. Guides were Tsering and Santa (although Santa only intended to carry the ropes across the glacier to the steep stretches of snow).

Once at the snow line proper (after skirting across the glacier being careful to avoid crevasses), the climb began in earnest (from the right hand side of the mountain).

Tsering put fixed lines in place for safety so we could use ascending devices. As there was a natural pause in the climbing while Tsering installed snow stakes and secured each section of rope, we were afforded amazing views across the valley.

While climbing we puffed and panted as a result of the altitude – the usual pattern was 3 or 4 steps followed by a pause to gather breath. To Tsering we must have seemed rather pathetic as we struggled our way up the slope, as he was fully adapted to the altitude and seemed to have no trouble descending on one occasion to retrieve a rope from below, carry it past us on the slope and install it on an upper section above us.

Once we hit the ridgeline, we inched toward the summit. It was a long grind but all five of us made it to the top and enjoyed the vista. Again it was an ideal day weatherwise with the best views part way up the mountain. As we took a little longer than with Yala Peak to reach the top, the clouds had gathered by the time we reached the summit so the views were a little inhibited from the top with a gentle breeze blowing.

The trip down was taken with care – prussic loops used on the fixed lines for added security. As expected the descent was much more rapid. It was great to be greeted by hot lemon and ginger tea from the cooks at the base of the fixed lines, which fortified us for the trudge back to High Camp.

It was so satisfying to be back at High Camp and to rest. It took us about 6 ½ hours to ascend and about 1 ½ to 2 hours to get down.

October 16 Ganja La

This was the day we crossed over the pass immediately above High Camp (about 200m climb) and passed into the next valley (away from Langtang). Again an early start as we had a long way to travel to reach the next camp site Dhukpu (where there was a water supply). We had a cut lunch supplied by the cooks.

The challenge was greatest for the porters, as there wasn’t a well established track near the top of the pass were it was very steep, and with a load of up to 30kg or more on their backs, there were some anxious moments. The leading guide (or sirdar) Tsering, established some fixed ropes for the porters on the way up but the way down the other side was tricky as well and without any supporting ropes. Most of us watched with amazement as the porters inched their way down (in light footwear, not the most suitable for snow conditions). It was not as challenging for us as our loads were much lighter (just a day pack), nevertheless we stepped carefully.

Some of the porters and our team decided to glissade in the snow in celebration of our successful descent.

The reminder of the day was spent covering significant territory to Dhukpu. It was a full day but there was an amazing change in the landscape as we progressively moved from alpine to sub-alpine . Towards Dhukpu we encountered large rhododendrons (whereas at the start of the day we started with no vegetation and then progressively through all sorts of miniatures). We saw no-one except near the end of the day a couple of trekkers camped at the same site as we chose (much to our surprise). This was a valley less travelled, but extensive dwellings (karka) established (mainly for Yak farmers) and beautiful views. It could have been as much as a 10 hour day to reach our destination, so we slept well that night.

Report by Russell Trotter